Exploring the Baltic Sea by Bike: A Journey Through West Pomerania
The Baltic Sea may not be the first destination that comes to mind for cycling enthusiasts, but a ride along the Velo Baltica (R10) quickly reveals why Poland’s northern coastline is becoming one of Europe’s premier cycling destinations.
A Commitment to Sustainable Mobility
In recent years, West Pomerania has made significant investments in sustainable mobility, developing a modern and continuous network of cycling routes seamlessly integrated with the landscape. This infrastructure allows cyclists to traverse hundreds of kilometers along the Baltic, passing through historic cities, lagoons, forests, coastal dunes, lighthouses, quaint fishing villages, and expansive sandy beaches—almost always away from vehicular traffic.
The Velo Baltica: A Dual Route
Our journey primarily follows the Velo Baltica (R10), the main cycling route that spans the entire Polish coastline. In this section of West Pomerania, it coincides almost entirely with EuroVelo 10 – the Baltic Sea Cycle Route, a renowned international itinerary of over 8,000 kilometers encircling the Baltic Sea across nine countries. In this region, it also overlaps with EuroVelo 13 – The Iron Curtain Trail.
Day 1: From Szczecin to the Baltic Coast
Our adventure begins in Szczecin, the capital of West Pomerania, situated on the Oder River just before it opens into the vast Szczecin Lagoon. Historically, Szczecin has been a significant commercial port and the capital of the Duchy of Pomerania.
A visit to the majestic Pomeranian Dukes’ Castle (Zamek Książąt Pomorskich) is a must. Reconstructed after World War II, the castle now hosts exhibitions, concerts, and cultural events. From its courtyards, one can enjoy panoramic views of the city rooftops and the Oder River.
A short walk leads to one of Poland’s most iconic contemporary buildings: the Mieczysław Karłowicz Philharmonic. Designed by the Barozzi Veiga studio and awarded the Mies van der Rohe Prize in 2015, its white façade with pointed forms is inspired by the Gothic roofs of Hanseatic houses and the sails of ships navigating the Baltic.
As we pedal towards the Baltic, the urban landscape gives way to the expansive Szczecin Lagoon (Zalew Szczeciński), one of the largest lagoon environments in the Baltic. The route alternates between dedicated bike paths and tranquil secondary roads through forests and countryside, maintaining a flat profile suitable for all cyclists, even those with loaded touring bikes.
After several hours, we reach Stepnica, a small town directly on the lagoon. The marina here is a pleasant stop, frequented by sailors, fishermen, and cyclists. The ideal place for a break is the Tawerna Panorama, a restaurant with a splendid terrace overlooking the harbor. Here, Baltic fish takes center stage on the menu, accompanied by seasonal vegetables and traditional herring prepared according to Pomeranian recipes.
Day 2: Through Wolin National Park to Międzyzdroje
The second day offers some of the most spectacular landscapes. The Velo Baltica continues through Wolin National Park, one of Poland’s most valuable natural areas. Established in 1960, the park protects over 10,000 hectares of coastal ecosystems, forests, lagoons, and cliffs.
The bike path alternates between long stretches separated from traffic and paved forest roads, always well-marked and immersed in an environment of extraordinary quality. The continuous succession of pine forests, ancient beech trees, and glimpses of the Baltic makes each kilometer unique.
Along the way, a slight detour leads to some of the most famous viewpoints on the Polish coast. The first is the Kawcza Góra lookout, reachable via a short walk. From here, the panorama opens up over the entire bay of Międzyzdroje, with long sandy beaches that seem to dissolve on the horizon. A bit further, the road leads to the Gosań lookout, the highest natural point on the Polish Baltic coast, about 95 meters above sea level. On clear days, the view extends for tens of kilometers, allowing one to grasp the extraordinary expanse of the Baltic and the succession of high cliffs shaped over the centuries by the sea’s action.
In the afternoon, the route reaches Międzyzdroje, an elegant seaside resort that has been one of the most renowned tourist destinations on the Baltic coast since the late 19th century. Its famous pier, nearly four hundred meters long, extends into the sea, offering a completely different perspective of the coast.
Day 3: From Dziwnów to Kołobrzeg
The final day of the journey encapsulates what West Pomerania offers to the cyclist: modern infrastructure, ever-changing coastal landscapes, small towns rich in history, and hospitality tailored for two-wheel travelers.
Departing from Dziwnów in the early morning, the route crosses a modern drawbridge over the Dziwna River, one of the three branches connecting the Szczecin Lagoon to the Baltic. The Velo Baltica continues eastward, still coinciding with EuroVelo 10 – Baltic Sea Cycle Route.
The path alternates between long stretches separated from traffic and tranquil local roads, always characterized by limited traffic. The asphalt is smooth, the signage uniform, and the rest areas frequent—elements that confirm Pomerania’s vocation as one of Europe’s most cyclist-friendly regions.
Along the way, the route passes through small tourist ports, coastal dunes, and wetlands where numerous bird species find refuge during migrations. The Velo Baltica maintains an extremely pleasant course, alternating long straight stretches immersed in the pine forest with brief crossings of inhabited centers. The impression is that of an itinerary designed to be experienced without haste, letting oneself be guided by the rhythm of the bicycle.
As the journey concludes in Kołobrzeg, one of the most important cities on the Baltic coast, the cyclist is left with unforgettable memories of landscapes