Embarking on My First Bikepacking Adventure in the Balkans
Embarking on a bikepacking journey is often driven by a desire to challenge oneself and immerse in diverse cultures. For me, the decision to traverse the Balkans was made just two weeks before departure, aiming to experience multiple cultures within a single trip.
Preparation and Initial Challenges
Organizing a bikepacking trip is no simple feat. Unlike a station wagon, a bicycle requires meticulous planning and compromises. Within two days, I managed to assemble my gear, including a tent—a first for me.
Week 1: Slovenian and Croatian Apprenticeship
The first week was a learning curve. Adjusting to new routines, managing anxieties, fatigue, heat, and doubts about the journey’s magnitude were all part of the experience. My inaugural night was spent wild camping, where every noise made me imagine the presence of a bear just outside my tent, resulting in a nearly sleepless night.
The following day, after encountering a clearing filled with wild horses and witnessing one of the most breathtaking sunsets of my life, I found myself in the same predicament as the previous night. Faced with the necessity of another wild camping experience, I was graciously welcomed by an elderly couple. They not only invited me into their home, offering their garden for my tent but also provided dinner, bathroom facilities, and allowed me to recharge my phone and power bank. This encounter underscored the profound human connections fostered through bikepacking.
The week unfolded with numerous country roads, solitude during long rides, and the occasional offering of Slivovitz (a local plum brandy) from strangers along the way. I reached Trogir, a charming city on a small island connected to the mainland by a bridge, cycling along Eurovelo 6—the coastal alternative to the Trans Dinarica route.
Week 2: Bosnia, Montenegro, and the Discovery of Fellow Bikepackers
Up until this point, I hadn’t encountered many fellow bikepackers, except for Leo from Rio de Janeiro, whom I had crossed paths with twice. I hadn’t yet realized that bikepackers form a unique community, and the beauty of this experience lies in human interactions, pauses, and conversations.
Reuniting with Leo for the third time over approximately 500 kilometers, we decided to ride together. We traversed a scenic mountain road, enjoyed a spectacular sunset, and raced against the encroaching darkness to reach Makarska and find a hostel.
The next morning, we parted ways—Leo heading towards Albania and I towards Mostar in Bosnia. Along the way, I met Naomi, a Dutch woman on a 1990s Giant bicycle, heavily loaded and weighing at least 10 kg more than mine. She had embarked from Zurich with the goal of reaching Istanbul.
After a brief rest due to persistent back and knee issues from poor saddle positioning, we continued together. Naomi, exhausted from a 120 km day, swapped bikes with me, as mine was lighter by at least 10 kg. Energized by her enthusiasm, we navigated a completely dark highway with only two rear lights to guide us. In hindsight, it was a risky endeavor, but arriving in Mostar under heavy rain felt epic. Naomi had covered approximately 170 km that day, while I had done 120 km.
Our paths diverged the following day, but the bond formed over shared experiences was undeniable. After a traditional Bosnian breakfast, I continued northward, aiming to enter Montenegro from the north and traverse Durmitor National Park—a must-see for its pristine landscapes.
Week 3: Durmitor and the Discovery of Albania
The day I entered Durmitor National Park was unforgettable. A steady climb through the park revealed vast, untouched meadows bordered by mountains, evoking a profound emotional connection to the landscape.
The following day, Naomi and I parted ways, each heading towards our respective destinations. I journeyed solo towards Lake Shkodër, crossing the Montenegro-Albania border.
The next day marked my final leg to Tirana, covering 110 km. Upon exiting a supermarket, I met Srina, a young Swiss traveler heading towards Italy. Despite her unconventional attire—Adidas slippers with white socks and a heavily loaded bike—she pedaled with remarkable speed and style.
We shared a leisurely ride, exchanging stories about our lives and reasons for being in that Albanian bar. Later, we joined a young French couple heading towards China and were invited by an Albanian family for coffee. For about two hours, it felt like a clandestine bikepacking club, with all members silently acknowledging each other.
In Albania, roadside encouragements and offers for water or coffee are common. While other countries also exhibited similar hospitality, Albanians seem to have a particular admiration for travelers navigating their roads on two wheels.
After this serendipitous encounter, Srina and I concluded our extraordinary day together. Arriving in Tirana amidst evening traffic, I discovered a city brimming with life. The excellent food, spontaneous meetings, and the warmth of its people made it the first European capital where I felt truly at home during my journey.
The final stretch to Durrës, 25 km towards the ferry, was marked by two flat tires—the only ones of the trip. It was an opportune moment to experience a technical issue firsthand.
Reflections on the Bikepacking Journey
Bikepacking is an incredible journey, with the only adversary being the fear of not undertaking it. The apprehension before starting, especially when traveling solo, is significant, but the key is to take it one day at a time. Throughout my journey, I spent considerable time with courageous and exceptional women who taught me much. I witnessed them confront catcalling and endure 35°C heat while wearing long pants to avoid uncomfortable situations. As an observer, I felt powerless, but most people along the way appreciated our efforts and offered help. Moreover, companionship is often found along the road.
A heartfelt thanks to all the people I met during this journey, especially to my travel companion, my Van Rysel GRVL AF SRAM, frame number 623462. Since the end of the rental, I occasionally visit it at Decathlon in Moncalieri.
I hope that one day they will put it up for sale, so I can purchase it and re-equip it for the next adventure!
By Davide Vallorani
Discover More Travel Stories at the Cycling Tourism Fair
If this account has inspired you, don’t miss the upcoming Cycling Tourism Fair 2026 in Padua from March 27 to 29. There, you’ll find stories, experiences, destinations, and practical advice to organize your next cycling vacation.